Acid Reign

Acid Reign..

I couldn't help but be curious when I was invited to the exclusive blogger launch of Illamasqua's SS11 Toxic Nature make-up collection. Last season's Art of Darkness collection had been, as the name suggests, quite gothic. With the sole exception of the lone fairy in the campaign, the other models, on the whole, wore darkly opulent looks. Having seen the sea of brights emerge on the SS11 catwalks, I was interested to see what direction the brand's new collection would take. Would there be more of the same, or would the brand take an altogether brighter approach to the new season?

The official copy for the collection reads:

"Unpredictable. Unchartered. Unnatural. Distorted by mankind, the natural world is fighting back, in retaliation against the modified society that plunders it, the landscape has issued forth a torrent of hybrid shades. Corrupted hues glister amongst muted tones - extreme, intoxicating versions of their original selves. This is an atomic-botanical environment where survival is key and camouflage by colour is the path to existence".

If I had to describe it myself, it would be something along the lines of "The Garden of Eden meets Chernobyl".

Get The Toxic Nature Look

The opening picture (at the top) showcases one of the more extreme looks that can be created with this collection. The model wears:

- New Cream Pigment in Emerge (peach), Bedaub (mint), and Mould (grape) - £17

- Precision Ink in "Abyss" - £17

-Lipstick in "Atomic" - £15.50

- Illuminator in "Odyssey" - £13.50

- Medium Pencil in "Fidelity" - £13

- Nail Varnish in "Radium" - £13.50

This is one of the softer campaign shots, showcasing the versatility of the products. I would consider the campaign shots in the same manner you would a couture fashion show. Couture is theatre at the grandest, most extravagant scale. A couture customer such as Daphne Guinness, would watch a show, and mentally edit the creations, deconstructing them, perhaps taking a silhouette and colour here, and a fabric and detail there, making her own mental shopping list of how she would have the designs adapted to meet her own specific needs and fantasies.

This make-up collection is no different. Yes, you can go full on Harajuku Girl and paint the town neon if you wish, but some astoundingly sophisticated and sensual looks are easily achievable too, using the nude shades in the range. If you love super-bright shades, but are fearful of an OTT look, you can always choose one of the bolder eye, lip or nail shades as a focal point to your beauty look, tapping into the trend for toxic neons, but without going over the edge, taking a full on, apocalyptic Mad Max approach.

The Competition

Competition alert! If you register on the Illamasqua website and get on the waiting list for your favourite products from the Toxic Nature collection, the brand will select three lucky winners, and send them all the products they've selected, in advance of the online launch of the collection on the 10th of March, and the UK store launches on the 17th of March.

The Video

The official video that accompanies the campaign is my favourite to date. I took some snaps to showcase some of the vivid looks we saw.

I'm loving the purple lashes in this shot. You can achieve this look by brushing one of the Cream Pigments through your lashes with a clean disposable mascara wand (you can snap them up from branches of Sally's). Alternatively, you could use a brow and lash comb, or even a clean old toothbrush.

This eye make-up look is my absolute favourite from the campaign. The Cream Eye Shadow in Bedaub (mint green), looks amazing on the model's tanned skin. The black tear effects are also a winner, achieved here with the Precision Ink in Abyss, a glossy black long wear liquid liner.

This shot is bonkers, the model looks like the love child of Ru Paul and Lady Gaga, but she looks fierce none-the-less.

The Colour Chart

David Horne, the head of new product development for Illamasqua, was especially excited about this colour chart. Showcasing the colours in the range, it demonstrates how new shades can be created by mixing different ones together. Kind of like a Dulux paint chart for the Nu Rave generation.

The Face Chart

Face charts were available to the bloggers at the event, allowing them the opportunity to create their own unique looks.

Inspiration

If I had to create a mood board for the collection, it would feature reference imagery from the following three artists:

Takashi Murakami

Julie Verhoeven

Yayoi Kusama

The Food

Even the food got the toxic treatment, these macaroons are like Laduree on acid.

The Displays

The displays at the event definitely had psychedelic elements. Here the neon bright shades are flanked by a blue butterfly and rainbow-hued beetle.

This magic mushroom was rather novel, certainly a different approach to merchandising make-up

The tangerine and fuchsia pink magic mushroom mirrored the colours of the collection's lipsticks and lipglosses.

The Cream Pigments

The shade variety in the Cream Pigments range was intriguing. Unnatural brights sat beside neutral, flesh-toned nudes. With a matte texture and waterproof finish, these densely pigmented creams would be ideal for the festival circuit this summer, guaranteed to last as long as you do, applied with either fingers, or a brush.

From left to right, I have swatched the Cream Pigments in Bedaub (mint green), Mould (grape), Dab (Lilac), Delerium (rose taupe) and Emerge (peach). David Horne attributed the painterly names to the fact that the collection had a painterly feel to it, in terms of the textures of the products, especially the Cream Pigments, Precision Ink, Lipsticks and Lipgloses.

Coloured Hair

At Cynthia Rowley's AW10 show in New York, the models sported coloured streaks in their hair. This look has since been adopted by a host of celebrities, from Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj to Ke$ha.

You can re-create this look by painting the Cream Pigments through your hair. I'd recommend using one of Illamasqua's angled brushes (available in two sizes) for a precise application.

Nude

The nude look is big news this season. Puerto Rican-born model Joan Smalls shows that contouring works equally well on darker skins, photographed here, backstage at the Versace SS11 show.

You can get the look with these Cream Pigments. Pictured from left to right are; Hollow, Emerge, Mould and Delerium. Leading film and TV make-up artist Spob was on hand to impart some words of wisdom about these fabulously versatile Cream Pigments. She suggested applying the Cream Pigment in Emerge (peach) under the eyes to counteract dark shadows (especially on darker skin tones). She suggests gently patting the product on the areas you wish to conceal, using the Illamasqua Eye Shadow Brush. Layer the product on until the desired depth of colour had been achieved. For a truly flawless airbrushed finish, she suggests blending with Illamasqua's Eye Shadow Blending Brush.

You can take the nude look from matte to dewy with the aid of a nude highlighter. Jac, pictured here, backstage at Gucci SS11, shows how a neutral contour shade blended around the eye, worn with a nude highlighter on the inner corner of the eyes, eyelids and brow bone, can take the look from flat to fierce in seconds.

Get the look with the Cream Pigment in Emerge, Precision Ink in Glister and Nail Varnish in Bacterium (a taupe shade in a similar vein to Chanel's Particuliere, but with some added iridescence).

A swatch of the Precision Ink in Glister (literally Glister by name, Glister by nature, just check out that subtle sparkle).

Colour Block Nails

Backstage at the Christian Dior SS11 show, model Sophi Srej sported oval shaped tangerine nails, setting a trend for uber-bright hues on the nails this season.

A group shot of the new Nail Varnish shades. Pictured from left to right are; Gamma, Radium, Stagnate, Bacterium and Purity.

You can mix and match your wardrobe of new season nail colours, creating a vivid array of striking colour block combinations.

Alternatively, you can make a statement with one colour, as seen above, where the model wears the Nail Varnish in Purity, with the Top Coat on top for a glossy cream finish.

Mike Pocock, who together with Marian Newman and Leighton Denny, is one of the world's leading creative nail artists, has created his second special edition set of Nail Quills, to co-incide with the new Toxic Nature collection. Worn on the thumbs, they have an almost armadillo quality to them with their concertina-style tips. They have been painted with the Nail Varnish in Bacterium.

Lips

Pictured above, from left to right, are the Lipglosses in Torture (coral peach) and Divine (fuchsia pink), and Lipsticks in Flare (bright orange) and Atomic (fuchsia violet).

A swatch of the Lipsticks.

A swatch of the lipglosses.

The Illamasqua Toxic Nature SS11 Collection is available online from 10th March, and in UK stores from 17th March.

www.illamasqua.com

www.debenhams.com

www.selfridges.com

One Smalls Step For Man

One Smalls Step For Man..

I was so excited when Estee Lauder sent me a press release on their collaboration with Derek Lam for his AW11 catwalk show in New York. Puerto Rican-born model Joan Smalls (pictured above), ranks 7th in Models.com's Top 50 Female Models. She was the third new Global Spokesmodel signed by Estee Lauder last year. She follows in the oh-so-glamorous footsteps of Ethiopian supermodel Liya Kebede, whose contract as a face and Global Spokesmodel for the brand, came to a natural end in 2008.

I'm mixed race (my mother is half Ethiopian and half Eritrean, while my father is Scottish), and it is SUCH a joy to see diversity in beauty advertising. Though I was born in Oman, I relocated with my parents to Northumberland at the age of five. I was educated in Northumberland, Scotland and London throughout the 80's and 90's. Yet throughout my childhood, I often felt somehow detached and disenfranchised. My black hair, olive skin and brown eyes set me apart from the people I saw around me. Where did I fit in?

I'd attended an international school in Oman. When I think of my classmates, I envisage a Benetton campaign. Lots of youthful, smiley faces, in an array of skin tones with infinite nuances in hue and tone. This was my earliest memory. But soon, I found myself on a plane out of the Gulf Coast, headed to a remote town in rural Northumberland, surrounded by farmer's fields and a stone's throw from the sea (talk about a culture shock). The point of this little anecdote, is of course that I couldn't help but feel a little cut off. My new neighbours and classmates found it difficult to process me and my African mother at first, but in time we were vaguely accepted into the community (but not by all my any stretch of the imagination, this was slow progress).

Even while at school in Scotland through my late childhood to my mid-teens, my Scottish heritage was irrelevant. People didn't believe me when I said I was half Scottish. For one, I didn't sound Scottish and I certainly didn't look it. In summary, had I seen more diversity around me. Had I seen it in the films I watched and the adverts I saw, perhaps I wouldn't have felt quite so alien.

This is why brands such as Estee Lauder ought to be celebrated. As a professional who has worked in the fashion and beauty industry for over a decade, it genuinely warms my heart to see a global brand of this magnitude, communicating proudly, that beauty is multifaceted. It is not one race, creed, colour or religion, neither it an age. We are all inherently beautiful. Everyone has a beautiful aspect about them, be it that little twinkle in their eyes, a disarming smile, flawless skin, killer legs, an amazing bum, a fabulous tummy, a bountiful bust or just a delightfully mischievous sense of humour. Beauty and charisma, even star quality, are not tangible, measurable qualities.

When I think of the original supermodels of the early 90's; British/Jamaican Naomi Campbell with her panther like strut and cocoa-hued skin, Canadian Linda Evangelista with those inimitable cat eyes, American Cindy Crawford with that mane of chestnut hair, beach tan and aerobics queen body and American/Peruvian supermodel Christy Turlington with her exquisite angelic face, they were all so different. When they, along with fellow supermodel Tatjana Patitz, starred in George Michael's Freedom video, it not only cemented a definitive cultural moment, it also showcased (albeit on a minute scale), the breadth of beauty our world has to offer.

The late Yves Saint Laurent was groundbreaking in his frequent use of black models (femmes noires) on the catwalk. Without his appreciation of African beauty, I'm not sure if Burberry would have cast black British model Jourdan Dunn to be the face of their brand last month (for the month of February only). African American male supermodel Tyson Beckford would have been unlikely to have graced the 90's Ralph Lauren billboards and African American supermodel Veronica Webb would most probably, have not become Revlon's first black face, again, back in the 90's. It is worth mentioning that Naomi Campbell has publicly acknowledged that she had been approached to be the face of Revlon, but when her fellow supermodel friends told her that Revlon were paying them significantly more than they had offered her, she politely declined (highly respectable).

What I find remarkable about Revlon, is that its billionaire founder Charles Revson, had a well documented affair with the American actress and singer Eartha Kitt. In her book, "Confessions Of A Sex Kitten", she talked at length about their intimate relationship. He lavished her with expensive gifts, even buying her a ranch and land when he had to cool their romance, after his estranged wife had threatened to publicise the fact he was dating a black woman, unless he gave into her divorce demands on his assets. A dear friend of James Dean, Kitt's mother was half Cherokee and half African-American, while her father was of European origin. I wonder what the late Revson would have made of the fact that the very company he founded, would go on to deny Naomi Campbell the same rate as her fellow models. Kitt even mentioned in her book, that after she complained that Revlon had no lip colours to suit her complexion, he looked at the lipstick she bought in Paris and soon, a shade for her was available in Revlon's collection. Not only was Revson clearly a devoted and kind lover, ever the businessman, he was actively seeking to give his consumer what she wanted.

Campbell has also said, several times, that had it not been for her great friend Christy Turlington, she wouldn't have had a fraction of the modelling work she received. Turlington and the other supermodels, would often threaten to boycott designers, telling them that they would all cancel appearing at their shows, unless Naomi got booked too. This display of humanity and sisterly solidarity, is for me, quite possibly the most important aspect of the entire supermodel legacy. Forget the glamour, the clothes and accessories, the jet set lifestyle, the parties, the jewels, the hotels, the red carpets. What good are any of those things without freedom and equality. Like the musketeers, it was a case of "all for one and one for all", and what a marvellous attitude that is to embrace, as we move towards the future.

Not one of the couture make-up brands has a black face (you'd be hard-pressed to find even a tanned one). This season Chanel has Eastern European model Jac, Dior has the Italian actress Monica Bellucci, Dolce&Gabbana has American actress Scarlett Johansson and Armani has American actress Megan Fox. These legendary brands supposedly inspire the masses and define the trends, yet on a commercial level, all the marketing campaigns seem tragically outmoded (or c'est depasse as the late Saint Laurent would say). I hope that these brands follow in the footsteps of Lauder brands; Estee Lauder, Bobbi Brown and MAC, who have been intelligent and humane enough to accept and celebrate every glorious, unique facet of global beauty.

Bobbi Brown took the brave step of casting real models in last season's Pretty Powerful campaign (and accompanying book), featuring women of various ages and diverse ethnic heritage. These are the faces of modern beauty. Yes, consumers like to stare wistfully at beautiful faces, after all, we all love to dream, and dreams are the very foundations upon which the fashion and beauty industries are built. I'd be lying if I said that I didn't enjoy flicking through all my favourite fashion magazines, drooling over the lavish set designs, hot models, world class photography, design, styling and make-up. For me, design is as valid an art as painting or sculpture. If one can admire a Picasso painting or an Anish Kapoor sculpture, why can't you appreciate the high art that goes into creating fashion and beauty imagery.

There's no doubt that in this business, we sell people their fantasies. The industry creates the fantasy as a means of "need creation". Entire advertising campaigns, or "fantasies", are built around products, be it accessories, garments, or cosmetics. Gazing adoringly at an Armani Beauty campaign shot of Megan Fox for instance, it would be very easy for a female consumer to think "I need that lipstick", if the prospect of buying that product somehow whispers seductive promises of Hollywood sex appeal, Angelina Jolie lips and mass adoration. At the core of all this glamour, lies the "feel good factor". Fashion and beauty makes us feel great. But how can I feel good about myself when I can't even see myself in the very campaigns that were designed to make me spend my hard-earned cash in the first place?

This is where Estee Lauder differs. Just look at the diversity of the two other Global Spokesmodels the brand signed last year:

French supermodel Constance Jablonski, pictured above at the Derek Lam AW11 show, is seen wearing Estee Lauder Automatic Brow Duo through her brows, her eyes adorned with the NEW Estee Lauder Silver (metallic finish) and Black (shimmer finish) Eyeshadow shades, two hot new shades launching in AW11. Her eyes have been highlighted with the NEW Estee Lauder Illuminating Powder, also launching in AW11. On her lips, she wears the NEW Estee Lauder Nude Matte Lipstick, again, launching in AW11 (gosh this is painful, I'm already pining for all these delectable treats).

Constance has been popping up on the runway pretty much everywhere. One of the hottest faces of the moment, like Joan Smalls, she is beloved of many a high profile designer and photographer. Constance ranks 6th in the Models.com Top 50 Female Models chart.

Liu Wen, pictured above at Derek Lam AW11, became the first Asian face of Estee Lauder, having been appointed a Global Spokesmodel for the brand last year. Hailing from the Hunan Provence of China, she was the first East Asian model to walk the Victoria's Secret runway in 2009. She has since starred in a major campaign for CK Calvin Klein, photographed by the leading photographers of luxury advertising campaigns, Mert & Marcus, not to mention gracing the runway for a plethora of global fashion brands. Liu ranks 10th in Model.com's Top 50 Female Models.

Originating from Korea, Jin Soon Choi (pictured above), is the founder of New York's uber-successful chain of Jin Soon Natural Hand and Foot spas. Like Marian Newman, Leighton Denny and Mike Pocock, she is one of the hottest creative nail artists in the world. She collaborated with MAC for AW10 on a limited edition range of six nail colours, inspired by Imperial Asia. For the AW11 Derek Lam show, she painted the models' nails with Estee Lauder's NEW Pure Colour Nail Lacquer in Porcelain, launching in AW11. Joan and Liu sport the ethereal shade on their nails in the photos above. It looks like an amazing manicure colour for anyone who favours a natural look. It looks unbelievably fresh and clean, a great work or bridal shade.

Constance, Liu and Joan, pictured backstage at Derek Lam AW11

Constance, Tom Pecheux, Liu Wen and Joan Smalls, pictured backstage at Derek Lam AW11. Tom created the make-up look for the show, with sheer velvet finish skin, nude lips, subtly contoured cheeks, defined brows and a graphic winged silver and black eye shape.

The official Estee Lauder face chart Tom Pecheaux created for the Derek Lam AW11 show.

Tom and his team prepped the model's skin with Estee Lauder DayWear Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15. This super-hydrating cream is best used twice-daily. With a unique anti-oxidant that offers broad-spectrum protection from the ageing effects of UVA rays. I'm forever writing about the importance of incorporating an SPF of at least 15 into your daily skincare regime as a means of maintaining the youthful quality of your skin for the long term. If you leave a photograph by a windowsill for too long, it soon yellows and fades. The same is true of our skin, if you want to avoid being mistaken for a raisin in the supermarket, it would be well worth you investing in this multi-tasking moisturiser.

The model's immaculate, sheer velvet finish complexions were created using Estee Lauder Double Wear Light SPF 10 Foundation. Estee Lauder originally launched with Double Wear, a 15-hour wear full coverage foundation, with a much heavier texture. This lighter version, has a deliciously sheer texture whilst still imparting a soft, medium coverage finish. The SPF 10 is a bonus, though dermatologists recommend an SPF 15 as a minimum for safe daily exposure to UVA rays. Because the models' skin was prepped with an SPF 15 moisturiser, they needn't have worried about using their foundation in conjunction with a purpose-designed SPF product. However, if you choose to wear Double Wear Light with a regular moisturiser, you could always apply a product like Clinique City Block, a sheer liquid UVA shield, available in a range of SPF levels.

The foundation was set with a light dusting of Estee Lauder Lucidity Loose Powder. It's worth noting the skin finish on all the models was velvet matte, a departure from the dewy skin that is so hot this season.

Naturally, each of the three featured Estee Lauder Global Spokesmodels has been blessed with razor-sharp cheekbones. Tom Pecheux and his team further enhanced this aspect of their beauty, sculpting and contouring their cheeks further with Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Soft Duo Bronzer.

Estee Lauder DayWear Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15 - £35

Estee Lauder Double Wear Light SPF 10 Foundation - £25.50

Estee Lauder Lucidity Loose Powder - £25

Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Soft Duo Bronzer - £26

Estee Lauder Automatic Eye Duo - £16.50

www.esteelauder.co.uk

We Didn't Start The Fire

We Didn't Start The Fire..

Last week I attended the highly anticipated launch of Topshop Make-Up's Spring / Summer 2011 Sandstorm collection in the penthouse suite of The Sanderson hotel. In all honesty I had not paid that much attention to this line since its debut last year, bar an initial play when they took over one of the prized "A" sites in the beauty hall of London's Selfridges. I recall thinking that the lipsticks had more pigment than I assumed they would have, with a delightfully creamy texture. I had also been impressed with the eyeliners, which were soft and smudgy (a dream base for the perfect smoky eye). The powder eye shadows, blushers, bronzers and highlighting powders were in my opinion less successful. Their chalky texture and lack of pigment intensity was a disappointment.

So naturally, when the opportunity arose to have an exclusive preview of this season's offerings, I was intrigued to see how the products had progressed (if at all). I have to say that on the whole, I was pretty impressed. One of the first guests to arrive, the striking campaign shots immediately caught my eye. Featuring the ethnic diversity found in Topshop's fashion campaigns, the three images displayed showcased three different faces, two white models and one black (I suppose that some diversity is better than none). Each image was styled completely differently, showcasing the breadth of looks one can create with the collection's products. Inspired by the annual Burning Man festival in Nevada's remote Black Rock desert, the official Press release states:

"With eye shadows and cheek duos that conjure images of a glowing sunset nestled on the faraway horizon, Sandstorm captures a playful form of self-expression found at Burning Man. The capsule collection is a crossover of versatile products and formulas that blend, build and burn from dusk until dawn. The collection encompasses colour for lips, eyes and nails. Sorbet shades contrast against washed out vibrancy from eyes in Meteoric through cheeks in Desert Sun, to lips in Ablaze with gloss and matte finishes".

Scroll down to read my thoughts on the collection's hits and misses.

The official description of the lipsticks reads:

"Designed to achieve a matte, creamy lip finish that can be applied as both a sheer or block colour. Lip shades can be worn with either a peachy eye or together with a metallic sheen for a grungy not-so-done look".

Shades: Tawny & Daze

Well, on the whole I think the lipsticks are beautiful. The formulation meets the above description and there's a good colour depth. Viewing the image above (from left to right), I'd recommend investing in shades 1, 4, 5 and 6. The tawny nude shade (1) would work especially well on tanned skin, especially with a smudgy, smoky eye. Shade (4) is the perfect soft rosy pink, (5) is a superb orange-coral shade that would really pop on fair skin, while (6) is more of a peachy nude that would be ideal for anyone who favours a nude lip with just enough colour to prevent you looking washed out (see the campaign image at the top). I would have liked to see some on-trend brights here (like the matte fuchsia lip James Kaliardos created for Diane von Furstenburg's SS11 catwalk show) but alas they were nowhere to be seen.

The liquid eyeliner (pictured above) was a definite hit. The pigment content was high, with an easy gel texture and waterproof long-wear finish. If I had to suggest one product for the festival circuit it would be this, because it's bound to last as long as you do. For effortless and precise application, it is best applied with an eyeliner brush (which rather handily can be found in the capsule Topshop Make-Up brush range).

The highlighting sticks (pictured above) were without doubt some of my favourite products from the night. I overheard someone say that these were "inspired" by a high end French brand (which to you and me means they copied the NARS Multiple). I'm never the type to beat around the bush. Everyone knows that Topshop has an ability like no other, to speedily reproduce catwalk trends and have them on the shop floor within weeks. This is the essence of Topshop. Why would anyone be surprised if they did this with their make-up line? If you're going to copy something, at least have the decency to copy it well (which for the record, I'm pleased to say they have).

Francois Nars created The Multiple after doing a shoot with a model, on which he used exactly the same shade on her eyes, cheeks and lips. The texture of these sticks is very similar to the NARS ones, but at a fraction of NARS prices. Cream and cream-to-powder formulas are not only a dream to blend, they're ideal for holidays as they can be applied easily with fingers without the need for precision (great for the girl-on-the-go). They also tend to withstand water and perspiration (ideal for festivals). The bronze shade (left) was one of the products I wish I'd gone home with, but sadly all the goody bags were long gone by the time I'd taken all my photos and spoken to all the resident experts.

Out of all the products pictured, the only thing I walked away with to test at home was a smudgy eyeliner (which I'm grateful for as it is beautiful). Perfect for summer, it will transform any festival attendee into a bronzed babe. I suggest blending it with your fingers, focusing on the areas the sun would naturally tan, ie temples, down the bridge of the nose and to contour the cheekbones. It would also work well blended on collar bones, arms and legs for a subtle highlight. If you're more pretty than punk, opt for the shimmering pink shade.

Pictured above is a group shot of the Sandstorm collection's key pieces. On the right you can see the eye crayon and metallic liquid liners that have been layered to great effect on the model pictured below. My client Alexandra Burke would be mad about these as her feline eyes are framed to perfection with a slick of winged eyeliner.

The model pictured above is truly exquisite, I have a feeling she may share my Ethiopian heritage as her features are very East African. The styling is perfect for the Burning Man theme with her cornrows, brightly coloured feathers and ethnic jewellery combining to create a striking tribal look. This is definitely a look I'd want to rock at Burning Man, just look at the dramatic graphic winged eyeliner (which by the way would be so easily replicated with the products in the range). The nude lip and contoured cheekbones create the perfect balance for the strong eye shape.

What would a festival be without wet wipes? These essential 3-in-1 wipes will cleanse, tone and moisturise more than just your face (well let's face it, showers aren't likely at a festival unless you're attending the mud-fest that is Glastonbury). It's one thing to channel Native American Indians, but literally "going native" is an entirely different ball game. I say stay clean and serene no-matter what your festival scene (it's only respectful of the other people sharing your tent).

Every make-up artist worth their salt knows that a flawless finish is dependent on the right tools. It was great to see that a capsule brush range has been included. While some brushes had a single function (ie the Concealer and Eye Shadow brushes), others were dual purpose and double ended (Face & Eyes and Smokey Eyes).

The cream blushers pictured above were another hit. With a supremely blendable gel-cream texture, they had just the right amount of pigment to deliver a sheer wash of colour to the cheeks. My dear friend Tricia Woolston (make-up artist to Denise Van Outen and Nigella Lawson) was also crazy about these. We compared the formulation to Stila's Convertable Colour (which we sorely miss since they started having distribution issues here in the UK).

The marbleised, domed eye shadow duos were nothing that I hadn't seen before (MAC Mineralize anyone?). In fact, The Body Shop have already taken inspiration from MAC with their versions of these products. Given Topshop's reputation for catching trends early, I would have expected them to release a product like this before a brand like The Body Shop. Personally, I would have done this last year and moved on to something fresher. My friends and I noticed some fall-out from these when playing with them dry, which was a little disappointing. Though, in fairness, used wet, the colour payoff and texture was closer to the mark.

Pictured above is another knockout campaign image. Notice the model's uber-cute gap toothed pout, she's like a mini hybrid of Georgia May Jagger and the lioness that is supermodel Lara Stone. There's also an element of US pop star Ke$ha with the "I've just been to a three day rave" eye make-up, subtly bronzed cheeks and nude lolita lips. The random blue streaks in the model's hair further enhance the rebellious teenage allure (you know you're getting older when you find yourself pining for your former clubbing days - sigh). The bird's nest hair completes the look and is reminiscent of an episode of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, specifically a limousine journey that featured this classic line from Lisa Vanderpump; "I feel like I've been shagged through a hedge backwards". Only a Brit could come up with a line like that, and in this instance, nothing I could write could sum up the model's look more succinctly.

The nail colours featured above certainly ticked the pastel and colour-block trend boxes, but as with the lipsticks, I felt that the uber-brights were sadly absent. With rainbow hued Barry M and Illamasqua varnishes both available at Topshop Oxford Circus (the former at the Barry M concession and the latter used exclusively by Wah! Nails), one would have thought that they would have used the opportunity to observe their colour palettes, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I'm not saying that the nail colours aren't good, I just would have liked to have seen more choice.

Though I've been a little disappointed by the core nail colours, these trend varnishes are bang on for this season and bring innovation to the mix. I especially love the aqua, hot pink and metallic gold shades. Used traditionally, or applied in a crazy "dip-and-marble" fashion (see the picture below), I think these will be as hot for nails as the Barry M cracked varnishes and Minx manicures were last season. My moles at Illamasqua told me that they were rather peeved that Barry M had brought the cracked varnishes to the market before they did, as they had stumbled upon the supplier at approximately the same time. It just goes to show that the early bird catches the worm.

If you take your sweet time bringing something fresh to the market, one of your competitors is bound to get in there before you and capitalise on that particular niche in the market. So far, this "dip and marble" technique is something I've only ever encountered in book-binding classes (don't ask, the stench of the glue still haunts me). I'll be curious to see if any other brands bring something similar to the market in the months to come. If they do, I'll be the first to say that Topshop Make-Up did it first.

Here you can see the resident nail artist in action. I (and everyone else), watched in awe as he poured a little of each shade into a bowl of water, dipped the client's hands in it and cleaned the edges of her fingernails to create a Pucci-esque print. This may be one of the occasions where I envisage yummy mummies stealing from their daughters, rather than vice versa. After all, what better way to accessorise your Pucci kaftan in Ibiza this summer, than with bespoke retro-printed nails (now that's what I call chic). I just hope that Topshop get with the program and start creating some make-up tutorials on their website.

Turorials can be found everywhere online from niche brands such as Illamasqua, to prestige brands such as Bobbi Brown. If the brand is smart, they'll do some research and start working closely with prominent bloggers and their own make-up artists to create these video formats to educate and inspire their customers. It's not like nail marbling and professional make-up is on the national curriculum. Consumers want to be given the tools and resources to re-create and emulate the looks they love.

The Topshop Make-Up Spring / Summer 2011 Sandstorm Collection consists of 20 products, with prices ranging from £5-£12.

Available at selected Topshop stores and online at:

www.topshop.com