You Say Tomato, I Say Tomato

You Say Tomato, I Say Tomato..

When I think about it, there's no doubt that my mother was my beauty and style hero growing up. As a child I used to sit transfixed, as she sat or stood by a mirror, masterfully applying her make-up, wearing something typically uber-glamourous. Whether in my birth place of Oman, or in my latter home in rural Newcastle, she always seemed like an exotic peacock amongst pigeons.

Having been in her prime in the heady late 70's Disco era, her style was colourful, exotic and decadent. Her various beauty regimes were an integral part of her life. She was a yummy mummy before the phrase had even been coined. I dread to say it, but I recall at school in Scotland, boys in my boarding house marvelling at the cherished picture of my mother I kept adoringly by my bed. To me she was just "mummy" but to them she was "yummy". 

Mum has been undergoing chemotherapy since she was diagnosed with small cell carcinoma in the lungs last year. She has a lot of tumours so the last year or so have been difficult to say the least. Worse still, my mother was battling breast cancer a decade ago, and survived, only to be cursed a second time.

The first time around I remember mum being really weak and sleeping a lot. I had to shave her head when her hair started to fall out (something I repeated the second time). She lost her eye lashes and then became very puffy due to all the steroids. The radiation treatment left her with a black mark so large and prominent over her breast area that it looked like she had been attacked by a hot iron. The scar from the lumpectomy a constant reminder of her fierce battle with "The Big C".

After her recent bout of chemotherapy, mum started to develop other side effects relating to her treatment. Insomnia (at one point she was so stressed and in so much pain that she couldn't sleep for a week). Her eye sight has been severely impaired, she relies on glasses to see things she would have had no trouble registering ten years ago. Worst of all is the chronic pain and neurological issues such as impaired reflexes and sensation in her hands and fingers. She also experiences acute muscle cramps and shakes involuntarily.

To say that she has suffered would be an understatement. But true to her supermum form, she has barely complained throughout the whole ordeal, choosing instead to mostly suffer with dignity, in silence.

At times I can find it hard to be with my mother. We love each other fiercely, she is a tiger mother and I her tiger cub. We are both stubborn to a fault, independent in spirit and fiery (me in spirit, her in temper lol). Being close to her, sometimes when she is angry and frustrated, I feel like I have been on the receiving end of the brunt of it, which in truth has been really difficult. I know inside that it's not really her when she is like that, it's the illness and what it has done to her.

Being such an immense, life or death prospect, it has altered our relationship somewhat. I have drifted away a little, partly because I'm 30 and partly because it's a difficult situation. I don't want to smother her or patronise her. One of her biggest frustrations has been her inability to do menial tasks. The impaired sensation in her hands and fingers and involuntary shakes make a simple task like making a cup of tea a danger. Fiercely independent in nature, to rely on others has been something she has had to get used to.

Beauty is not only my vocation and one of my core passions, it has also been a way for me to re-connect with my mother and indulge her. Giving her a manicure and pedicure the other day, it dawned on me that when we are children, our parents look after us, and when we become adults, it is we, the children, who care for our parents. And so it should be. Maybe Elton John wasn't so off the mark when he sang The Lion King's Circle of Life. 

It gives me immense pleasure to look after my mother and to pamper her with facials, manicures and pedicures. She deserves all the love and attention in the world. Cancer has a terrible way of making everyone involved feel powerless. You sit, and you wait, and you pray. You pray that this time, the test results will indicate a turnaround, or that miracle upon miracles, they decree that the dreaded "C" has been vanquished, that a state of remission, the holy grail, has finally been reached.

So you do what you can, you fight with whatever you've got in your bag of tricks and you damn well make the best of things. 

Being a jobbing make-up artist, my "bag of tricks" is in fact a bedroom and bathroom stacked with storage boxes containing beauty gems such as Dolce & Gabbana Intense Nail Lacquer in Fire, pictured on yummy mummy above. Yummy is doubly appropriate, as this luscious, juicy tomato red shade makes me salivate. Laughingly, yummy mummy kind of looks like she's about to throw a grenade (once a military wife, always a military wife). I guess now would be as good a time as any to insert the Bruno Mars jokes. 

But seriously, Fire is the cosmetic equivalent of a grenade, it certainly has explosive beauty and style impact. It speaks of 70's glamour, of exotic climes and sun drenched beaches, framed by azure skies and crystal clear water. Damn it, it makes me want to be in Antigua, Bali, Mauritius or Fiji. It is the kind of quintessential coral red that you could imagine Basian beauty Rihanna rocking from her lips to her fingers and toes. Or the type of hue Marisa Berenson, Bianca Jagger, Pat Cleveland, Marie Helvin and Jerry Hall would have rocked in an opulent Vogue spread, or on the dance floor at Studio 54 in their 70's hey day. 

For yummy mummy (shall we refer to her as YM from now on) we settled on fingers and toes, and goodness doesn't the colour just pop against her rich chocolate skin tone?

I started off by soaking YM's hands and feet in bowls of pleasantly hot water, spritzing the water liberally with Leighton Denny Intense Manicure Oil. Chemo really dries the skin, so the Avocado, Wheatgerm, Olive, Sweet Almond and Palm Oil nourish and hydrate, while essential oils of Lavender, Chamomile, Geranium, Cedarwood and Bergamot combine to soothe and uplift the senses. 

I massaged and scrubbed her hands and feet with The Body Shop Spa Wisdom Africa Ximenia & Salt Scrub. Containing Community Fair Trade beeswax supplied by Guide D'Espoir in Camaroon and hydrating Ximenia, an emollient seed oil. It's worth noting that salt scrubs become salt soaks when the body, or parts, are submerged, promoting the elimination of toxins and easing muscle and joint pain. Epsom and Dead Sea Salts are noted for their intrinsic healing properties. This product wins on two fronts as the salt crystals exfoliate while the Ximenia Seed Oil hydrates, leaving you with soft and supple skin. Massage not only relaxes, it also stimulates circulation, oxygenating the blood, therefore promoting healthier cell function and lymphatic drainage. 

After a good ten minute soak, I dried YM's hands and feet, trimmed her finger nails and toe nails, filed them to a soft rounded shape at the tips, then buffed them using a generic "nail cube".

Once the nails were filed and buffed, I massaged them with Creative Nail Design SolarOil Cuticle Oil and gently pushed back YM's cuticles. I got turned on to this product by an amazing beauty therapist at the Spa at Chancery Court (www.spachancerycourt.com). A blend of Jojoba, Rice Bran and Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba in particular is noted for its ability to carry Vitamin E deep into the skin to prevent cellular damage (the wonders of antioxidants). It also has healing properties, essential for dry, brittle or sensitive nails. Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Madonna are reported to be fans. The host of awards this manicure essential has garnered since its launch speaks volumes about its efficacy in promoting healthy, conditioned nails.

Once the solar oil had penetrated, I treated YM's arms, hands, legs and feet to an indulgent massage with the Leighton Denny Intense Manicure Oil, the beautifying properties of which we touched on earlier. It has become commonplace to use an oil-based serum or booster prior to a facial moisturiser (Trilogy 100% Certified Organic Rosehip Oil being a fine example), so why not utilise the same knowledge when dealing with your body? If you have particularly dry skin, exfoliate to smooth and promote cell renewal, rinse, then massage your desired oil into the body when the skin is still moist, this seals in essential moisture and really plumps. Follow with a liberal application of your favourite cream. I'm a fan of Leighton Denny Intense Manicure Oil as the spray action makes it super easy to apply all over the body. Being a dry oil formula, it doesn't feel excessively heavy or greasy on the skin. It penetrates quickly with minimal residue and smells divine.  

The skin prep was complete once I'd massaged a liberal helping of The Body Shop Spa Wisdom Africa Honey & Beeswax Hand And Foot Butter over YM's pre-oiled arms, hands, legs and feet. Containing Community Fair Trade beeswax from Guide D'Espoir (also in the Ximenia & Salt Scrub) and soothing and hydrating honey extract, YM's skin was so luminous and smooth afterwards. Check out her shiny ankles in the pedicure shot.       

I'm obsessed with Leighton Denny Under Cover Base Coat. With the slightest hint of opaque pink pigment and a finish that is neither matte nor glossy, more demi-matte, it's often my go to product when I'm doing my own nails. But my own man-e-cure regime aside, it's a brilliant base coat. People are becoming increasingly au fait with make-up primers, so why not prime your nails too? It makes for a much smoother application, protects the nails from discolouration and increases the life of your manicure. This is exactly what I used to prime YM's nails.

Once the base coat had dried, it was time to paint YM's now glistening talons and toes with Dolce & Gabbana Intense Nail Lacquer in Fire. I love the Dolce & Gabanna lacquers because one coat delivers a whopping colour pay off with a hyper-glam glassy finish. 

Though designed to not need a top coat, to ensure YM's manicure lasted a week, I did some brand fusion and followed the DG Lacquer in Fire with the NARS Top Coat. Covetable for the Fabien Baron designed logo alone, this little gem ensured YM's manicure had a glossy, crystal finish, also sealing in the colour, making the manicure more chip resistant and durable.

Stockists

The Body Shop Africa Ximenia & Salt Scrub - £15

www.thebodyshop.co.uk

Creative Nail Design SolarOil Cuticle Oil - £11.95

www.cultbeauty.co.uk

Leighton Denny Intense Manicure Oil - £22

www.feelunique.com

The Body Shop Africa Honey & Beeswax Hand And Foot Butter - £10

www.thebodyshop.co.uk

Leighton Denny Under Cover Base Coat - £11

www.lookfantastic.com

Dolce & Gabanna Intense Nail Lacquer in Fire - £18

www.harrods.com

NARS Top Coat - £14

www.narscosmetics.co.uk

L'Eau My God

L'Eau My God..

When I first saw the visual for Chanel's Vitalumiere Aqua foundation, I was stunned. Lagerfeld's latest muse, Monika "Jac" Jagaciak, has more than an air of a 90's era Vanessa Paradis. The porcelain skin, piercing green eyes and flowing mane of brown hair, are all reminiscent of Paradis in the 90's Chanel Coco fragrance advert, directed by the legendary Jean-Paul Goude. In this TV and print campaign, Goude envisaged Paradis as an exotic caged bird. She swung suggestively, clad in Chanel couture, a dazzling vision of black feathers and sheer black diamante encrusted nylons (well this was Paradis in her prime). A work of conceptual genius, perhaps Goude was alluding to those privileged and beautiful women in society whom inhabit a gilded cage. Their prison may be crafted from gold, but what use is opulence to them without freedom?

Paradis' make-up in the Coco advert is like a Polaroid from the Supermodel era. That definitive cultural moment when Vogue put Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Tatjana Patitz on their cover. George Michael cast the same girls to appear in his Freedom video, and (with the exception of Patitz) they were photographed striding down the catwalk together, arm in arm for Gianni Versace. And so the supermodel was born. The antithesis of the modern waif, the supermodels were all suggestive curves, big hair, doe eyes, Bardot lips and a strictly matte, maximalist approach to make-up.

The "more is more" beauty maxim may have worked back in 1990, but for Spring / Summer 2011, there's a strong trend towards sheer, translucent dewiness. Gone are the heavy powders and bases that defined early 90's beauty. In their place, we have super-lightweight, silky, "barely there" textures. The difference between the old fashioned souffle and velvet textures and the new super-sheer formulations, is like the difference between opaque wool tights and the finest silk denier stockings. The former completely obscures the skin, masking it rather than enhancing it. While the latter offers a whisper of coverage, whilst allowing the skin to shine through. This is the essence of Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua's allure, only, what it lacks in viscosity, it more than compensates for in pigment content.

As with all things Chanel, this new wonder-product has already earned a loyal celebrity fan base (not to mention selling out pretty much everywhere). Hollywood starlet Anne Hathaway may have worn Balmain for the cover of ELLE UK's December 2010 issue, but it was with Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua that make-up supremo Kay Montano adorned her face.

To wear this look well, it is best to adhere to the beauty mantra "beautiful make-up begins with beautiful skin". Investing in a gentle facial exfoliant will do wonders for the surface texture of your skin, imbuing you with a perfectly smooth canvas. The gentle jojoba microbeads in Chanel's Maximum Radiance Exfoliating Gel will slough off dull dead skin cells, smoothing the texture of your skin and revealing the fresh "virgin" skin beneath. The massaging action itself will do a world of good, stimulating micro-circulation, bringing life to the complexion. Don't forget to exfoliate your lips, after all, a fabulous lip colour or gloss is pointless with a parched pout. With the dead cells gone, the skin is ready to be nourished.

I suggest incorporating a facial serum into your skin regime. Applied post cleanser / face wash, and before moisturiser, a good serum will nourish the skin, boosting the effects of the moisturiser. Nothing evokes youth and vitality more than plump skin. Massage Chanel's Hydramax + Active Moisture Boost Serum into the skin in firm circular motions, starting from the neck, working up behind the ears, taking care to massage the back of the neck, and finally up to the face and temples. I can't stress enough how much good a little regular daily facial massage will do for your complexion and skin health. Stimulating blood flow will allow the active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin.

They say that the eyes are the windows to the soul. Like the neck and hands, they are also one of the biggest indicators of our age. Banish fine lines and dark circles with Chanel's Energising Multi-Protection Eye Gel. For a truly soothing treat, keep this in the fridge. The coldness on application will shrink capillaries, reducing puffiness and shadows. I suggest massaging gently around the eye, using the lightest pressure with the tip of the ring finger. Finish by tapping lightly around the orbital bone, this will stimulate lymphatic drainage, easing the flow of toxins away from the eye area.

For people of my generation, I'd suggest hydrating the skin with Chanel's Hydramax + Active Moisture Fluid. If you have a more mature skin type, I'd suggest upgrading to something richer, as our skin tends to lose moisture as we advance in years, necessitating increased nourishment. Massage the moisturiser into your skin in the same manner as the serum, allowing a few minutes to dry before applying your primer.

The cold weather can wreak havoc with the skin's moisture levels. A great make-up artist trick for giving skin a hasty boost, is to apply an intensive hydrating mask prior to a special occasion. Chanel's Hydramax + Active Moisture Mask is a fantastic option. Layer over skin after cleansing, leave for 15 minutes then tissue or rinse off as desired. I often take this approach when a client's skin is looking a little parched, or when a model turns up for a shoot, fresh off the plane, with the lacklustre skin to prove it. This handy little trick is the perfect pre-party pick me up.

When hydrating the skin, it's important not to forget your lips. I always suggest applying a conditioning balm to the lips after moisturising the face, as it allows sufficient time for the product to sink in prior to the application of lip colour. Chanel's Hydramax + Lip Care is a handbag / manbag essential. I can't live without lip balm, especially at this time of year.

The key to replicating the ethereal dewiness so loved by the A-List is to invest in a good cream / liquid highlighter. Chanel's Le Blanc De Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base can either be applied to skin prior to foundation, mixed in with the foundation, or applied over foundation (on cheekbones and temples) to achieve an incandescently radiant complexion. Experiment to find the best option for you, though I suggest investing in Chanel's superb foundation brush, as this will assist you in achieving that airbrushed Hollywood finish. The shorter hairs in this brush make it fabulous for buffing. Of all the professional brushes I've tested, this is without doubt one of my all time favourites. A "must have" for anyone who is serious about flawless foundation.

With your skin buffed, plumped, primed and illuminated, it is time to perfect your base. Using the Chanel Foundation Brush, I suggest buffing Chanel's Vitalumiere Aqua foundation down the central panel of the face, blending softly outwards the hair line and temples. When you look at someone or converse, you tend to focus on this area of the face, hence focusing the denser coverage in these areas. Water-based, this foundation delivers sheer-to-medium, buildable coverage, with ease of texture of a tinted moisturiser.

The pigment content is the highest of any of the similar products I've tested from competitors on the market. The subtle, fresh oceanic scent further intensifies the sensuality of this product, making it a true delight to use. It is quite literally a breath of fresh air for the skin. Lotus water extract boosts micro-circulation, while hyaluronic acid hydrates and brown seaweed revitalises (and all in such a tiny portable plastic bottle).

Like some of the other notable "next generation" foundations, Chanel's Vitalumiere Aqua contains silicone. This ingredient not only assists in waterproofing (and therefore extending the wear of) your foundation, it also imbues it with a liquid silk texture, creating the smoothest of canvases. Meanwhile, the Radiance Light Diffusing Complex creates a halo of soft light, imparting an ethereal and highly flattering glow. The SPF 15 provides sufficient protection from the ageing effects of sun exposure and environmental aggressors, negating the need for an additional SPF product.

To keep this look fresh, it is best to stick to liquid concealers. Anything heavier will take away from the dewiness. Chanel's Eclat Lumiere Highlighter Face Pen is the perfect option. I suggest blending under the eyes, on the brow bone, lightly along the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, along the cupid's bow and around the sides of the nose (anywhere prone to shadows and redness).

With your face highlighted to perfection, it is time to sculpt. Chanel's Soleil Tan Sheer Illuminating Fluid is a delightfully sheer and pearly cream bronzer. I love to apply this with Chanel's Foundation Brush for a truly flawless finish. I suggest blending along the cheekbones, up towards the hairline. Or for a more elaborately scultped look, blending along the hairline and temples, down the sides of the bridge of the nose, beneath the cheekbones, along the chin and under the jaw line. My skin looks especially sallow at this time of year, so I rely on tricks like this to add some subtle warmth to my complexion.

Too much powder would really kill this look. Using the accompanying powder puff, I suggest gently patting / rolling the faintest whisper of Chanel's Natural Finish Loose Powder down the T-Zone. Minimising shine here is fine, but avoid powdering the cheeks and the edge of the temples, as shine in these areas has a beautiful lifting effect on the face.

I shall leave you with some words of wisdom. Never accept gifts from strangers (with the sole exception of licensed couriers hand-delivering Chanel).

Maximum Radiance Exfoliating Gel - £32

Hydramax + Active Moisture Boost Serum - £52.50

Energising Multi-Protection Eye Gel - £40

Hydramax + Active Moisture Fluid - £44

Hydramax + Active Moisture Mask - £35

Hydramax + Lip Care - £27

Le Blanc De Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base - £29

Vitalumiere Aqua Skin Perfecting Make-Up - £31.50

Eclat Lumiere Highlighter Face Pen - £26

Soleil Tan Sheer Illuminating Fluid - £31

Natural Finish Loose Powder - £31

www.selfridges.com

Earth, Wind And Fire

Earth, Wind and Fire..

I think I'm turning Japanese. Perhaps I've been listening to The Vapors too much of late, that, or I've re-read Arthur Golden's Memoirs of a Geisha one too many times. Actually, it's a firm "no" on both counts. So why the sudden interest in all things Japanese?

It all comes down to Asim Akhtar, founder of the oh-so-trendy Kyoku For Men. Akhtar comes from a family with more than 50 years in the beauty trade (and it shows in the formulations of his highly accomplished Elements range). While Arthur Golden dedicated a best-selling novel to the mysteries of the Geisha, Akhtar's sights were set further afield in Japan, specifically a little village called Yazuri Hara (the village of long life). The village earned its title due to the older generation's astoundingly youthful skin and active lifestyles (ie 80 year old farmers with a fondness for bicycles as a primary mode of transport). Furthermore, the population appears to be devoid of the mass incidents of heart disease, diabetes and Alzheimer's disease so prevalent in the West. So how is it that these Japanese villagers appear to be able to cheat father time? Is it like that 80's movie Cocoon? Are the elderly people swimming with alien cocoons in some remote swimming pool in a bid to keep the wrinkles at bay?

Sadly, Cocoon was just a film, and as far as I'm aware, no aliens were harmed in the making of the Kyoku Elements range. So what's the secret? Well, the Japanese diet is famed for bestowing good health and long life, and this was the source of Akhtar's primary research. Rich in hyaluronic acid (able to hold 1000 times its own weight in water), he strove to analyse this, and other key ingredients in the villagers' diet, harnessing them in a stylish range of products.

Using the Japanese cleansing ritual of Kirei (cleanse, scrub, fuel) for inspiration, he has created four unique fragrances (Earth, Fire, Water, Wind), each comprising of a body wash, scrub and lotion.

Winter isn't a season in London, it's more of a Tim Burton-esque cold spell we're forced to endure for the majority of the year. As such (and given the current freeze), my favourite in the range is the Fire shower gel. The invigorating ginger content is fantastic for boosting circulation and combating sluggish mornings (and hangovers), while the dragon's blood is known for its antiseptic and antibacterial properties (perfect for accident prone action men like me). To really fire you up, try using this shower gel with an exfoliating mitt. Using firm strokes, start at the base of the feet, stroking upwards towards the heart. If you're man enough, turn the thermostat to cold and finish your shower with a minute of bracing cold water - there's nothing better to boost circulation and your immunity first thing in the morning. If this doesn't start your engines, nothing will. The body lotion in the Earth range also gets a thumbs up for being genuinely hydrating (the fact it has a sexy scent doesn't hurt either). If you're a gym enthusiast, you'll love the cooling Water range. Not only does this offer soothing relief after a heavy weights session, the bottle is so snazzy you know it'll give the other blokes product envy.

The products in the Kyoku Elements range are priced at £17 and are available from the Kyoku website:

www.kyokuformen.com

www.houseoffraser.co.uk

We Didn't Start The Fire

We Didn't Start The Fire..

Last week I attended the highly anticipated launch of Topshop Make-Up's Spring / Summer 2011 Sandstorm collection in the penthouse suite of The Sanderson hotel. In all honesty I had not paid that much attention to this line since its debut last year, bar an initial play when they took over one of the prized "A" sites in the beauty hall of London's Selfridges. I recall thinking that the lipsticks had more pigment than I assumed they would have, with a delightfully creamy texture. I had also been impressed with the eyeliners, which were soft and smudgy (a dream base for the perfect smoky eye). The powder eye shadows, blushers, bronzers and highlighting powders were in my opinion less successful. Their chalky texture and lack of pigment intensity was a disappointment.

So naturally, when the opportunity arose to have an exclusive preview of this season's offerings, I was intrigued to see how the products had progressed (if at all). I have to say that on the whole, I was pretty impressed. One of the first guests to arrive, the striking campaign shots immediately caught my eye. Featuring the ethnic diversity found in Topshop's fashion campaigns, the three images displayed showcased three different faces, two white models and one black (I suppose that some diversity is better than none). Each image was styled completely differently, showcasing the breadth of looks one can create with the collection's products. Inspired by the annual Burning Man festival in Nevada's remote Black Rock desert, the official Press release states:

"With eye shadows and cheek duos that conjure images of a glowing sunset nestled on the faraway horizon, Sandstorm captures a playful form of self-expression found at Burning Man. The capsule collection is a crossover of versatile products and formulas that blend, build and burn from dusk until dawn. The collection encompasses colour for lips, eyes and nails. Sorbet shades contrast against washed out vibrancy from eyes in Meteoric through cheeks in Desert Sun, to lips in Ablaze with gloss and matte finishes".

Scroll down to read my thoughts on the collection's hits and misses.

The official description of the lipsticks reads:

"Designed to achieve a matte, creamy lip finish that can be applied as both a sheer or block colour. Lip shades can be worn with either a peachy eye or together with a metallic sheen for a grungy not-so-done look".

Shades: Tawny & Daze

Well, on the whole I think the lipsticks are beautiful. The formulation meets the above description and there's a good colour depth. Viewing the image above (from left to right), I'd recommend investing in shades 1, 4, 5 and 6. The tawny nude shade (1) would work especially well on tanned skin, especially with a smudgy, smoky eye. Shade (4) is the perfect soft rosy pink, (5) is a superb orange-coral shade that would really pop on fair skin, while (6) is more of a peachy nude that would be ideal for anyone who favours a nude lip with just enough colour to prevent you looking washed out (see the campaign image at the top). I would have liked to see some on-trend brights here (like the matte fuchsia lip James Kaliardos created for Diane von Furstenburg's SS11 catwalk show) but alas they were nowhere to be seen.

The liquid eyeliner (pictured above) was a definite hit. The pigment content was high, with an easy gel texture and waterproof long-wear finish. If I had to suggest one product for the festival circuit it would be this, because it's bound to last as long as you do. For effortless and precise application, it is best applied with an eyeliner brush (which rather handily can be found in the capsule Topshop Make-Up brush range).

The highlighting sticks (pictured above) were without doubt some of my favourite products from the night. I overheard someone say that these were "inspired" by a high end French brand (which to you and me means they copied the NARS Multiple). I'm never the type to beat around the bush. Everyone knows that Topshop has an ability like no other, to speedily reproduce catwalk trends and have them on the shop floor within weeks. This is the essence of Topshop. Why would anyone be surprised if they did this with their make-up line? If you're going to copy something, at least have the decency to copy it well (which for the record, I'm pleased to say they have).

Francois Nars created The Multiple after doing a shoot with a model, on which he used exactly the same shade on her eyes, cheeks and lips. The texture of these sticks is very similar to the NARS ones, but at a fraction of NARS prices. Cream and cream-to-powder formulas are not only a dream to blend, they're ideal for holidays as they can be applied easily with fingers without the need for precision (great for the girl-on-the-go). They also tend to withstand water and perspiration (ideal for festivals). The bronze shade (left) was one of the products I wish I'd gone home with, but sadly all the goody bags were long gone by the time I'd taken all my photos and spoken to all the resident experts.

Out of all the products pictured, the only thing I walked away with to test at home was a smudgy eyeliner (which I'm grateful for as it is beautiful). Perfect for summer, it will transform any festival attendee into a bronzed babe. I suggest blending it with your fingers, focusing on the areas the sun would naturally tan, ie temples, down the bridge of the nose and to contour the cheekbones. It would also work well blended on collar bones, arms and legs for a subtle highlight. If you're more pretty than punk, opt for the shimmering pink shade.

Pictured above is a group shot of the Sandstorm collection's key pieces. On the right you can see the eye crayon and metallic liquid liners that have been layered to great effect on the model pictured below. My client Alexandra Burke would be mad about these as her feline eyes are framed to perfection with a slick of winged eyeliner.

The model pictured above is truly exquisite, I have a feeling she may share my Ethiopian heritage as her features are very East African. The styling is perfect for the Burning Man theme with her cornrows, brightly coloured feathers and ethnic jewellery combining to create a striking tribal look. This is definitely a look I'd want to rock at Burning Man, just look at the dramatic graphic winged eyeliner (which by the way would be so easily replicated with the products in the range). The nude lip and contoured cheekbones create the perfect balance for the strong eye shape.

What would a festival be without wet wipes? These essential 3-in-1 wipes will cleanse, tone and moisturise more than just your face (well let's face it, showers aren't likely at a festival unless you're attending the mud-fest that is Glastonbury). It's one thing to channel Native American Indians, but literally "going native" is an entirely different ball game. I say stay clean and serene no-matter what your festival scene (it's only respectful of the other people sharing your tent).

Every make-up artist worth their salt knows that a flawless finish is dependent on the right tools. It was great to see that a capsule brush range has been included. While some brushes had a single function (ie the Concealer and Eye Shadow brushes), others were dual purpose and double ended (Face & Eyes and Smokey Eyes).

The cream blushers pictured above were another hit. With a supremely blendable gel-cream texture, they had just the right amount of pigment to deliver a sheer wash of colour to the cheeks. My dear friend Tricia Woolston (make-up artist to Denise Van Outen and Nigella Lawson) was also crazy about these. We compared the formulation to Stila's Convertable Colour (which we sorely miss since they started having distribution issues here in the UK).

The marbleised, domed eye shadow duos were nothing that I hadn't seen before (MAC Mineralize anyone?). In fact, The Body Shop have already taken inspiration from MAC with their versions of these products. Given Topshop's reputation for catching trends early, I would have expected them to release a product like this before a brand like The Body Shop. Personally, I would have done this last year and moved on to something fresher. My friends and I noticed some fall-out from these when playing with them dry, which was a little disappointing. Though, in fairness, used wet, the colour payoff and texture was closer to the mark.

Pictured above is another knockout campaign image. Notice the model's uber-cute gap toothed pout, she's like a mini hybrid of Georgia May Jagger and the lioness that is supermodel Lara Stone. There's also an element of US pop star Ke$ha with the "I've just been to a three day rave" eye make-up, subtly bronzed cheeks and nude lolita lips. The random blue streaks in the model's hair further enhance the rebellious teenage allure (you know you're getting older when you find yourself pining for your former clubbing days - sigh). The bird's nest hair completes the look and is reminiscent of an episode of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, specifically a limousine journey that featured this classic line from Lisa Vanderpump; "I feel like I've been shagged through a hedge backwards". Only a Brit could come up with a line like that, and in this instance, nothing I could write could sum up the model's look more succinctly.

The nail colours featured above certainly ticked the pastel and colour-block trend boxes, but as with the lipsticks, I felt that the uber-brights were sadly absent. With rainbow hued Barry M and Illamasqua varnishes both available at Topshop Oxford Circus (the former at the Barry M concession and the latter used exclusively by Wah! Nails), one would have thought that they would have used the opportunity to observe their colour palettes, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I'm not saying that the nail colours aren't good, I just would have liked to have seen more choice.

Though I've been a little disappointed by the core nail colours, these trend varnishes are bang on for this season and bring innovation to the mix. I especially love the aqua, hot pink and metallic gold shades. Used traditionally, or applied in a crazy "dip-and-marble" fashion (see the picture below), I think these will be as hot for nails as the Barry M cracked varnishes and Minx manicures were last season. My moles at Illamasqua told me that they were rather peeved that Barry M had brought the cracked varnishes to the market before they did, as they had stumbled upon the supplier at approximately the same time. It just goes to show that the early bird catches the worm.

If you take your sweet time bringing something fresh to the market, one of your competitors is bound to get in there before you and capitalise on that particular niche in the market. So far, this "dip and marble" technique is something I've only ever encountered in book-binding classes (don't ask, the stench of the glue still haunts me). I'll be curious to see if any other brands bring something similar to the market in the months to come. If they do, I'll be the first to say that Topshop Make-Up did it first.

Here you can see the resident nail artist in action. I (and everyone else), watched in awe as he poured a little of each shade into a bowl of water, dipped the client's hands in it and cleaned the edges of her fingernails to create a Pucci-esque print. This may be one of the occasions where I envisage yummy mummies stealing from their daughters, rather than vice versa. After all, what better way to accessorise your Pucci kaftan in Ibiza this summer, than with bespoke retro-printed nails (now that's what I call chic). I just hope that Topshop get with the program and start creating some make-up tutorials on their website.

Turorials can be found everywhere online from niche brands such as Illamasqua, to prestige brands such as Bobbi Brown. If the brand is smart, they'll do some research and start working closely with prominent bloggers and their own make-up artists to create these video formats to educate and inspire their customers. It's not like nail marbling and professional make-up is on the national curriculum. Consumers want to be given the tools and resources to re-create and emulate the looks they love.

The Topshop Make-Up Spring / Summer 2011 Sandstorm Collection consists of 20 products, with prices ranging from £5-£12.

Available at selected Topshop stores and online at:

www.topshop.com